Sunday, January 8, 2012

Van Horn Update

Frankly, I was a little concerned when one of my favorite neighborhood joints got written up as one of the top new restaurants in Brooklyn.  Call me selfish, but that type of publicity really makes certain places get out of hand.

I like the table-of-contents style price ellipses.
So I was pleasantly surprised to drop in to Van Horn the other night to find it pleasantly quiet.  Of course, the pace picked up and most of the tables were full by the time we left for the movie theater, but we got to enjoy our awesome sandos without having to wait for a table.  Not that I've ever had to wait here, but I fear, I fear.

I grabbed the menu because my original was a takeout, and also because they have definitely changed their style in the updated version.  

Now, the contrast between the two menus is stark.  I was always impressed at the simplicity- Chicken, Fish, Pork- they're sandwiches people, choose your filling.  At the same time, I gave credit to the waitresses for probably having to field a ton of questions- let's face it, it's NYC.  People love their food questions.  The new menu maintains the stampy, manual typewriter look- and it looks like they really stamp the name of the restaurant on each menu (now I feel bad for taking it...).  And in all actuality, it looks like they're printing them on a laserjet in the back office, and that's cool.  

But now we have words like zesty and toasted and vinaigrette and, while I do want to know those details, I'm lamenting a little bit the simplicity of the original VH and their cafeteria-style basics.  


    

By "Local" they mean they will be pouring it
locally from their draughts.







Thankfully, prices have mostly stayed the same (the BLT & BLP $ have mysteriously reversed, beets are up a buck).  In conclusion, Van Horn seems to be staying true to their original comfy food, comfy restaurant roots- even in this top ten restaurant mecca.  Let's not stay tuned for round three when we start learning the origin of their bacon and how the greens are prepared.  


So I ordered the Brunswick Stew for the first time, and it was really good.  Super hearty, it tasted exactly like it looked.  Tons of smoked pork- and corn, tomatoes & some green.  Of course got the Roasted Beets- we get them a lot but I'm always a little surprised that they're cold.  But a good complement to the molten stew.  And of course their beer list is great- I won't pretend I don't have a vested interest in Lagunitas, but it's still awesome to see a California beer on a North Carolinan menu.  And even more awesome that they refer to Lagunitas as "Local Draft Beer."  Shhh, we won't tell anyone.  

 

 

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