Katz's Delicatessen

This catering menu in no way does Katz's justice; to really understand the place, you have to go in with the throngs and squint up at the specials above the deli counter before joining the other bewildered patrons in the disorganized line. But you can tell enough, if you hadn't heard, that the place is all about their meat.


And then you look at the format of the menu, and it really manifests the underlying culture of the restaurant. Crazy fonts going every which way, so many items it puts you in a decision daze, and quotes, information and clip art abound. The salad platters are "artistically decorated." Like the menu, Katz's is a no-frills place that doesn't need to convince you to buy their goods.

We went here at 1am after Anthony Bourdain inspired us with his constant praise of this consummate New York deli. It was a perfect time to visit, as the crowds had thinned but we still had the authentic experience, jostling for line position and communicating our orders to one another in sign language to make sure no one got the same thing. I shared a pastrami on rye with Mom (who was in for a very unusual New York visit) G got a "nice, cold, bloody" roast beef and ve-G3 ended up with a "very un-Katz" egg salad and fries. All came with stacks of pickles and of course I almost lost my ticket stub before we walked out the door. I think I was too distracted trying to determine the celebrities on the wall next to us. Kramer, for one- yep, still up there.